|
|
 |
Author |
|
| Message | |
|
sgt.colon
Joined: 27 Jul 2009
Posts: 7380
Location: Just south of north.
|
|
|
|
 |
dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 46192
Location: yes
|
|
|
|
|
dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 46192
Location: yes
|
|
|
|
|
sgt.colon
Joined: 27 Jul 2009
Posts: 7380
Location: Just south of north.
|
|
|
|
|
dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 46192
Location: yes
|
|
|
|
|
sgt.colon
Joined: 27 Jul 2009
Posts: 7380
Location: Just south of north.
|
|
|
|
|
Slim
Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 6612
Location: New England (In the US of A)
|
|
|
|
|
dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 46192
Location: yes
|
 Posted: Wed Sep 25, 19 2:26 pm Post subject: |
 
|
how easy that will be depends on the brick/block work.
if it is fairly flat it is fairly easy
if the walls are well wonky it can take a bit of packing with shims or battens to give a flat plane of boards.
ie spirit level and string(laser) until you have a decent support to fix the boards to.
a proper messy wall (bomb damage, subsidence etc etc or it was thrown up after a good breakfast in the pub and the plasterers made it look ok) can need 2 x3 timber, a power plane, shims, a decent sds drill + nail plugs(frame fixings) and quite a bit of work to get a flat surface from masonry with a few inches of variation from flat.
if your walls are similar to the one you filled in the doorway, ie block on the inside and fairly flat dot and spot with a few shims should work and keep to the original depth.
that said if it is downstairs i would deep render in a waterproofed cement mortar(or breathable lime mortar) and skim on top.
deep render is not really a diy job unless you have learnt it as a trade in the past and you are still at Olympic standard fitness
just getting the correct mix is quite an art as well as a science and making stick and making it flat is quite skilled 
a good spread team should be able to do a normal domestic room for a grand or so
hack off is another skill , i use a solid but lightish breaker with a standard hex chisel if you get it right in use it sharpens to an asymmetrical edge that slides between render and masonry and pushes it off in sheets
it needs a sharp edge so if it arrives blunt grind it
work down and across in sections
once you are above barrow ht peel it off into a barrow if you can, sheets are easier than bits to clean up
bandstands or a platform are well useful, steps and a breaker is moody, ladder is ok if you are good at it otherwise it is well bad.
a diy strip might save a bit of cash but not much after breaker hire /muck away etc
if some plaster is ok it is possible to leave the good stuff, hack and render the dodgy bits and match to the existing level before a thin skim to give a decent surface
if possible work to the original surface cos then the doors etc still fit
im sorry not to be more useful but plastering advice is a bit tricky to do by remote control
the general principles above might help you work out what is the best next move.
ps hollow sounding bits can often be made to fall off by giving them a few whacks at 90 degrees with a hammer and lever em off with a crook end wrecking bar.
the bigger the bits the easier the job
the last one i did i got quite a lot of slabs but sometimes it comes of in little bits which need shovelling
ok if you are sure you want to do a proper job on this room pop off the hollow sounding bits and see what the underlying structure might be like seems a sensible opening move.
it would be daft to do a full refurbish if a clever repair will do a decent job. |
|
|
|
|
Mistress Rose
Joined: 21 Jul 2011
Posts: 15950
|
|
|
|
|
sgt.colon
Joined: 27 Jul 2009
Posts: 7380
Location: Just south of north.
|
|
|
|
|
dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 46192
Location: yes
|
|
|
|
|
Slim
Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 6612
Location: New England (In the US of A)
|
|
|
|
|
|
View Latest Posts