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stumbling goat
Joined: 20 Jan 2009 Posts: 1990
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Posted: Mon Aug 21, 17 9:08 pm Post subject: Instal a wood burner into a fireplace, queries? |
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Good evening,
Is this is the right section for this post? If not, Moderator, please relocate it.
Hoping someone can give some guidance me with the above project I am starting?
I've used the search function and can not find a post that answers all the questions I have, and I want to get this right.
The existing fireplace has a metal plate surround, iron mantel above, with a grate in the bottom. It was suggested by someone that gave a quote that the existing FP is a bedroom fireplace, installed by persons, skills, ability unknown.
Had a quote to instal a class 1 flue liner, came in at at £800. Would like to reduce this if I can without compromising on safety. Rather than ask about options, does anyone know what sort of flue liner I need?
This week I'm going to remove the existing fireplace, and clean the chimney, I can do that without risk.
Any information and suggestions are very welcome.
If anyone knows an installer who works in or would work in North London, I would welcome a name and number.
Thanks for reading and thanks in advance for any help.
sg |
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Ty Gwyn
Joined: 22 Sep 2010 Posts: 4610 Location: Lampeter
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dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 46168 Location: yes
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Posted: Mon Aug 21, 17 9:53 pm Post subject: |
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cant help with an installer, sorry
for a woodburner you do need the proper flue, this is partly for fire safety ( wood tars = chimney fires ) , to ensure a proper draft and therefore ventilation (safety again ) and a good one can be regularly cleaned fairly easily.
when removing the original fireplace chip out a bit of the plaster around it until you can find the ties that fasten it into the wall/hole. cut or dislodge those and it should lift out fairly easily.
beware soot, rubble etc tis a messy job usually.
make sure your installer has the right qualifications ( same as gas, leccy etc but a different ticket ) , badly installed woodburners can kill with carbon monoxide or fire
as you are in a smokeless zone you will need a clean burn unit ( check the specs say it is defra approved for urban/smokeless areas ) they range in price but are more expensive than the basic grate in a box.
avoid supercheap cast iron (they often crack ) and go for steel or good quality cast iron. antique ones wont meet defra standards but second hand can give bargains (see approved specs and make sure it is ok )
£800 for a flue inc fitting seems about right in london for a short lift from a bedroom , see insulation above, make sure the flue and burner unit will connect easily (odd sized fittings can be expensive )
if poss get the gap between the flue and chimney walls filled with the correct insulation ( vermiculite iirc ) to ensure the flue stays hot to provide a good lift of gasses/smoke, a cold pipe wont draw properly
an access port for rodding the flue avoids removing the burner for cleaning
if you can line the hole with rockwool insulation and fireproof mineral boards to reflect heat into the room if you cant be bothered with that render the inside of the hole with a lime based mix or add plasticiser to a cement render to allow for thermal expansion which should avoid cracking. if you want a tiled hole it needs rendering
to get the render to stick it needs any cement render hacking off ,a very good cleaning and treating with a tub of the stuff for the job sorry cant remember the names but it is the same as damp proffers use when rendering fireplaces and chimney breasts (old soot/chemicals in the bricks etc ) as well as good raking of joints and roughing of any smooth bricks (a needle gun head in an sds drill/kango is quick but hellish noisy )
a decent size platform is required , most bedroom fireplaces have a very small hearth. a cast concrete or stone slab giving at least 18" in front of the burner door is ideal to avoid embers burning the carpet when stoking etc and gives a place for a bit of spare fuel.
make sure the platform is level, a wonky fire looks dreadful and is difficult to attach to the flue ( see carbon monoxide etc )
the room will need some form of ventilation to provide air for the burner
have fun and use appropriate ppe, coal tars/soot are quite toxic so good hygine matters at the rip it out and clean it up stages
hope that helps a bit, have fun . |
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stumbling goat
Joined: 20 Jan 2009 Posts: 1990
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stumbling goat
Joined: 20 Jan 2009 Posts: 1990
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dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 46168 Location: yes
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Mistress Rose
Joined: 21 Jul 2011 Posts: 15932
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Posted: Tue Aug 22, 17 6:34 am Post subject: |
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Think Dpack has covered most of it. Flues are either metal or salt glazed ceramic. In many ways salt glazed ceramic is better as it is longer lasting, but it needs to be put in with the sockets pointing downwards. It will be more expensive however, and it may not be easy to build into an existing chimney.
If you haven't had a wood burner before, make sure your wood is as dry as possible before burning. If possible, bring about a weeks supply into the house a week before use, and store some near the side of the fire (but not touching) for a day if you can. A stove suitable for a smokeless zone should be fairly efficient. Another advantage is if you can get a multifuel grate as then you can add a bit of smokeless coal overnight if you want to keep the fire in. When shutting the fire down overnight, make sure that the logs have charred a bit before shutting down. Putting fresh, even very well seasoned and dry wood on, then shutting straight down causes tar. You may get away with a few big logs for overnight, but having the option of adding a bit of coal is always useful, although not so eco-friendly. |
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stumbling goat
Joined: 20 Jan 2009 Posts: 1990
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stumbling goat
Joined: 20 Jan 2009 Posts: 1990
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Ty Gwyn
Joined: 22 Sep 2010 Posts: 4610 Location: Lampeter
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stumbling goat
Joined: 20 Jan 2009 Posts: 1990
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dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 46168 Location: yes
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stumbling goat
Joined: 20 Jan 2009 Posts: 1990
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dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 46168 Location: yes
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