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Rotten gate posts
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SimonD



Joined: 09 Dec 2009
Posts: 26
Location: Devon
PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 10 3:08 pm    Post subject: Rotten gate posts Reply with quote
    

The past few years have been particularly wet here on Exmoor, and i have found recently that many of my gate posts have rotted and broken at the point where they meet the ground. They are only three years old. I am in the process of digging them out, and plan on replacing them with cut-down telegraph poles, with a fresh coat of creosote, but i was thinking of slipping the ends into thick plastic feed sacks before sinking them into the ground for a little extra protection. Has anyone else had this problem and come up with a solution, or have any thoughts on the feed sack idea?

oliveoyl



Joined: 18 Sep 2008
Posts: 425

PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 10 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

https://gardeners-world.net/prod_show.asp?prodid=3845 That sort of thing would be an option.

Brownbear



Joined: 28 May 2007
Posts: 14929
Location: South West
PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 10 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Use concrete posts, or galvanised steel ones set in concrete. Old concrete railway sleepers buried in the ground on their ends are ideal.

Tavascarow



Joined: 06 Aug 2006
Posts: 8407
Location: South Cornwall
PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 10 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Paint the part to be burried in a tar based waterproofing agent as used in old buildings.

Tavascarow



Joined: 06 Aug 2006
Posts: 8407
Location: South Cornwall
PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 10 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

I'm assuming the ones that have rotted weren't treated timber or I would be chasing your supplier for a refund.

RichardW



Joined: 24 Aug 2006
Posts: 8443
Location: Llyn Peninsular North Wales
PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 10 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

If you put it in a sack even if it does not get holed when refilling the hole it will catch the water that runs down the post & then the post will sit in a puddle for ever. Sounds like a good way to encourage rot.

Gervase



Joined: 17 Nov 2004
Posts: 8655

PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 10 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

The penny-pinching Cardi way is to buy your posts a month or so before you need them and soak the ends in old sump oil.

SimonD



Joined: 09 Dec 2009
Posts: 26
Location: Devon
PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 10 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Tavascarow wrote:
I'm assuming the ones that have rotted weren't treated timber or I would be chasing your supplier for a refund.


They were all treated, but after three years i'm not sure i have any comeback.

SimonD



Joined: 09 Dec 2009
Posts: 26
Location: Devon
PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 10 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

RichardW wrote:
If you put it in a sack even if it does not get holed when refilling the hole it will catch the water that runs down the post & then the post will sit in a puddle for ever. Sounds like a good way to encourage rot.


Mm, very true.

gil
Downsizer Moderator


Joined: 08 Jun 2005
Posts: 18410

PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 10 3:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

SimonD wrote:
Tavascarow wrote:
I'm assuming the ones that have rotted weren't treated timber or I would be chasing your supplier for a refund.


They were all treated, but after three years i'm not sure i have any comeback.


I think I'd have a word with a supplier about how long a treated post should last. I would expect more than three years out of a treated gatepost/strainer.

And BTW, the usual way of protecting the tops of gateposts here is old hubcaps or saucepans.

12Bore



Joined: 15 Jun 2008
Posts: 9089
Location: Paddling in the Mersey
PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 10 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Brownbear wrote:
Use concrete posts, or galvanised steel ones set in concrete. Old concrete railway sleepers buried in the ground on their ends are ideal.

I once had to remove a railway sleeper using a Bobcat as a crane, when the Bobcat fell forwards we set it back on it's tracks the dug some more - have you any idea how long the sleepers used on points are

magnet



Joined: 05 Apr 2010
Posts: 41
Location: Northumberland
PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 10 4:04 pm    Post subject: post rot Reply with quote
    

Hello when i set a post i drill a 8mm hole at ground level and at a downward angle so i can treat the posts from an oilcan with cuprinol every year. . When your done tap a little peg into the hole and leave till next year the peg prevents the hole being blocked with muck.You may find this some use . atb Magnet

Brownbear



Joined: 28 May 2007
Posts: 14929
Location: South West
PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 10 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

12Bore wrote:
Brownbear wrote:
Use concrete posts, or galvanised steel ones set in concrete. Old concrete railway sleepers buried in the ground on their ends are ideal.

I once had to remove a railway sleeper using a Bobcat as a crane, when the Bobcat fell forwards we set it back on it's tracks the dug some more - have you any idea how long the sleepers used on points are


Yes.


12Bore



Joined: 15 Jun 2008
Posts: 9089
Location: Paddling in the Mersey
PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 10 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Brownbear wrote:
12Bore wrote:
Brownbear wrote:
Use concrete posts, or galvanised steel ones set in concrete. Old concrete railway sleepers buried in the ground on their ends are ideal.

I once had to remove a railway sleeper using a Bobcat as a crane, when the Bobcat fell forwards we set it back on it's tracks the dug some more - have you any idea how long the sleepers used on points are


Yes.


If only.........

Brownbear



Joined: 28 May 2007
Posts: 14929
Location: South West
PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 10 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Actually, having seen the land in question, I think even concrete would rot there. Only time I've ever seen pigs wearing snorkels.

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